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When budgeting a lawn its easy to compare sod vs seed cost and think why don’t I just seed? Seeding it a great option for most plants and while it is much more cost effective to seed larger plants. Sod has become a standard for the fact that the labor involved in seeding an maintenance to be much heavier and lengthier.

Seed process of installing a lawn

If you have a tight budget, do not mind maintenance, and can stand waiting 6-8 months seeding is a great option. Every sod lawn whether from seed or sod recommends you properly amending and preparing the soil. the only time we ever see failed sod is from not preparation and seed holds a very small chance of filling out properly without amending soil and neutralize p.h.

Enclosed is how to properly prepare an area.

How to install your own lawn

1. Remove Old Lawn/Debris Cut out previous lawn using sod cutter if level, if not use rotor-tiller to cut out lawn and previous roots.
   Hand pick all perimeters with mattock pick-ax to assure not to damage bordering or concrete areas.
   Dispose of waste then begin breaking down soil by tilling the lawn vertically and horizontally doing the majority of your grading while cleaning out waste with raking and shoveling.
2. Trench For Sprinklers Trenching can be done after your major grading and should a minimum of 12 “below finished grade though 18-24″ preferred. If a main line of pressure minimum of 18″ and any other lines 2′ or 24” below grade. 
   This can be done manually with trenching shovels and pick-axes or with powered trenching machine.
   After all lines are installed test lines turn on to remove any debris and glue and adjust. 
   Fill in all trenches and rake and roll multiple times to properly pack the trenching. walking in trench lines first couple times packing 
   in will also help before raking and rolling.
   
   
3. Add Topsoil Bare minimum of 1 yard of topsoil/compost mix per a 250 square feet area to amend soil and neutralize P.H.- this is a 1″ spread over soil
   If area is mad of clay or need nutrients double your soil needed to 2 yards per 250 square feet. If large plants or trees were removed or remain call us for adjusted recommendation.
   
   
4. Rototill Soil Now till in the new topsoil to the old soil. this will further break down any rooting or waste from old lawn and plants and will help with surfacing the waste. rototill until soil is broken down and you are down at least 6″-8″ deep. level out with rakes continuing to take out any rocks roots waste or debris. the soil should be to resembling a sandy loam mix.
5. Rake , Level and Roll Soil begin setting your finish grade and cleaning out any remaining waste. At this point 99 percent of the waste should have been organically removed by raking out waste shoveling it up and taking it to dumps. use roller filled with water to compact soil them use rake to rough up any waste. after turn rake and grade an roll again. Use landscape rake to assure the easiest grading with wider rake.
6. ADD FERTILIZER After your soil area is graded to a finish height of 5/8″-1″ under finish height all waste removed and all soil had been mixed graded cleaned and packed add a starter fertilizer. Make sure to use fertilizer low in nitrogen when installing to promote rooting.
7. At This point you are open to going about either route sod or seed. If sodding your lawn you have to keep watering minimum of 2-3 times daily for 15-20 minutes each cycle for 3 weeks until properly rooted weaning off properly. We can provide more detailed directions vie email if asked. If you are seeding there will be the process of seeding over the area based off the recommendations of the seed distributor and type of seed. Each type of seed has different amount per a square foot. seed and cover with very light amount of soil 1/8″-3/8″ and lightly pack. this soil is used to help germination and to hide from rodents birds and animals as free feed. you will want to weed weekly and fertilize 6 weeks after seeding and continue to apply more seed every month and a half which is your average germination rate for most California grass. with daily watering and constant weeding you will be able to have a thick lush lawn in 6-8 months if all goes well. During this time you will have to keep pets and heavy foot traffic off the area. Now will proceed with sod directions which can and actually is done at times with over seeding.
8. Lay Sod use staggered brick formation making sure your seems are tight and well tucked into any edging. Water immediately after completion or 2 hrs into beginning if not completed. Install the same day this is a living product that is very delicate at this moment and is for the next two Weeks.
   
   
9. Water and Roll Lawn water lawn after finishing cutting lawn in and checking seems and quality. After installing roll lawn with roller filled with roller filled with water. Keep watering 2-3 times a day for 15-20 minutes for 3 weeks to a month until rooted after, then go to every other day.
10. After 4 to 6 weeks wait until a dry day or no rain an set your mower to the highest setting and mow your amazing new lawn. Adjust height by only one step each week of mowing. Fertilize after week 6 with our nitrogen base to help with development.
    
    

Things to consider is if your doing all the labor do you enjoy lawn work or prefer instant gratification. Both require a decent amount of water but seeding requires a specific time of year or you might be spending more on watering then you would have with the initial cost of already developed lawn.